Len Marks Photography
Headshots

Hair, Makeup, and Grooming for Your Headshot

September 2, 2026 · 6 min read · By Len Marks

Your bathroom mirror is lying to you, and not in the way you think. It is not flattering you. It is showing you a face at arm's length, lit from above, moving slightly, seen by a brain that has been correcting for your own reflection since childhood. A headshot is a still frame, lit from a specific direction, printed large enough that a stray eyebrow hair is a visible object. The two do not agree, and the difference is entirely predictable once you know where to look.

Almost none of what follows is about buying products. Most of it is about timing.

The Haircut Goes a Week Out, Not the Day Before

A fresh cut is the most common preparation mistake, and it is well intentioned every time. Hair needs somewhere between seven and ten days to settle. Straight off the chair, the edges are sharp in a way that photographs as a line rather than as hair, the neckline is high enough to look severe, and, more importantly, you have not lived in the cut long enough to know how it behaves. By day seven it falls the way it is going to fall for the next month, which is the version of you people will actually meet.

Color follows the same logic on a shorter clock. Three to five days is right. It lets the tone settle out of its first-day intensity and gives you time to fix it if the salon went somewhere unexpected. What you are avoiding in both cases is the same thing: sitting for a permanent photograph in a version of your hair you have not yet decided you like.

If you are between cuts and the choice is a rushed appointment the day before or leaving it, leave it. Slightly long reads as normal. Freshly cut and unfamiliar does not.

What Studio Light Does to Skin

Studio lighting is directional and bright, and it finds texture and shine that ambient room light hides. Two things follow from that.

The first is hydration, which is doing more work than any product on the day. Skin that is well hydrated over the days beforehand catches light evenly. Skin that is dehydrated catches it in patches and shows every line more sharply. Water and sleep in the three days before a session outperform anything applied in the ten minutes before.

The second is that the week before a headshot is the wrong week to try something new. No new actives, no first-time facial, no experimental peel, no product you have not worn before. Skin reacts on its own schedule and it does not consult your calendar. Anything genuinely worth doing to your skin should be finished at least two weeks out, which is enough time for it to have settled or for you to have recovered from it.

On the day, arrive with clean skin and moisturizer that has fully absorbed. Anything still sitting on the surface will read as shine under a light.

The SPF Problem Nobody Warns You About

This one is worth knowing because it is invisible until the images come up on screen. Many mineral sunscreens and a good number of primers and foundations contain titanium dioxide or zinc oxide. Those ingredients reflect light, which is precisely their job on a beach and precisely the problem in front of a flash. They can throw back a pale cast that makes your face read noticeably lighter and grayer than your neck, an effect known as flashback.

It does not happen to everyone or with every product, and it is difficult to correct afterward without altering skin tone in a way that stops looking like you. The simple fix is to skip heavy SPF products on your face on the morning of a studio session, and to keep it out of anything you layer under makeup. If you want to test a product you already own, photograph yourself with a phone flash in a dim room. Flashback shows up immediately.

Makeup That Photographs

The guiding principle is matte and blended, one step more than you would wear to a meeting and no further. Cameras exaggerate shine, and they exaggerate edges.

Matte finishes across the board. Dewy and glowy are beautiful in person and read as oil on camera. Powder the forehead, nose, and chin, which are the three places a light will find first.

One shade of foundation, blended past the jawline and down the neck. A visible line at the jaw is the single most common giveaway in an otherwise good photograph, and it is far more obvious in a still frame than in a mirror.

Go easy on shimmer, glitter, and anything with visible reflective particles. Under studio light they stop being a subtle sheen and become distinct points of light.

Define the eyes and brows a little more than usual, since strong light tends to wash them out, but stay short of anything you would call dramatic. The goal is that you look like yourself on a good day, not like you are wearing makeup in a photograph.

Choose a lip color you would genuinely wear. A shade bought for the occasion tends to look borrowed, and it is the first thing that dates a picture.

Bring your powder and your lip color with you. Sessions run long enough that a touch up partway through is normal, and it is easier than fixing shine later.

Beards, Brows, and the Things Men Skip

Men often arrive having thought about the shirt and nothing else, and there are three quick wins available.

A beard should be trimmed and the neckline cleaned two or three days before, for the same settling reason as a haircut. Sharp, same-day edges photograph as a drawn line. If you shave clean, do it the morning of rather than the night before, and keep it gentle. Razor irritation photographs red and takes retouching work to remove that is better spent elsewhere.

Brows want tidying, not shaping. A stray hair that nobody notices in conversation is genuinely visible in a large portrait, and thirty seconds of attention handles it.

Powder is not optional for men either, and it is the piece most often skipped out of self-consciousness. A translucent matte powder on the forehead and nose is the difference between skin and a highlight. It is not makeup in any sense that will show. It is simply the absence of shine.

Glasses, and a Note on Retouching

If you wear glasses every day, wear them. A portrait of you without the glasses people know you in is a portrait of someone slightly else. Anti-reflective coating helps considerably. If your frames photograph with heavy glare, an empty frame from your optician's counter solves it completely and costs nothing to ask for. Clean the lenses before you sit down, since a fingerprint reads as a smudge across your eye.

Retouching is real and it is included: your favorite image is professionally retouched as part of a session. It is worth understanding what that means. Retouching handles the temporary and the incidental, which is exactly what it should handle. A blemish that will be gone next week, a stray hair, a bit of shine, redness that is not usually there.

What retouching does not do, and should not do, is rebuild you. It cannot fix a haircut you are unhappy with, a foundation line at the jaw, or a flashback cast, at least not without pushing the image toward something that no longer looks like the person who walks into the room. That is the whole argument for preparation. Every minute spent on timing beforehand is a minute the finished picture spends looking like you.

The Short Version

Haircut seven to ten days out, color three to five. Sleep and water in the days before. Nothing new on your skin for two weeks. Skip facial SPF on the day. Matte, blended, one step up. Powder regardless of gender. Trim the beard early and the brows the day before. Wear your real glasses, cleaned.

None of it is difficult, and together it is most of the difference between a headshot you tolerate and one you use everywhere for the next two years. For the rest of the preparation, see how to prep for your session and what to wear, or book your session in the Huntington studio.

Ready When You Are

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